DaytonAndy wrote:Cav I found it easier to put a wooden pole through the rear wheel and Swingarm to stop it turning when removing and tightening the front sprocket.
I'll give that a go if I'm struggling I think - thanks for the input!
Try a decent piece of wood through the wheel spoke and the swingarm whilst loosening and tightening the sprocket nut. It shouldn't mark either, but you can use rag in the pressure points if you want. Miles easier than the rear brake method.
Here WAS a very late photo showing the bracket I made up for the Brembo MC
Pic removed.
Essentially it's a piece of bent steel (0.5mm thick). On it's own it does bugger all but with the hose connected it's pretty good, more stable than some I've seen on YouTube
Last edited by Cav on 09 Apr 2016, 07:53, edited 1 time in total.
Damn phone camera's being good enough to get a high quality picture.
Sorry, not sorry Rossgo! haha. I'm itching to get back out too but can't afford to tax it until next month so Silverstone is going to be my first proper ride this year!
Not a lot left to do to the bike now besides the usual and I'll try to sort out my CCT too.
All that's left is for the brakes to be bled again, oil change and oil filter, change the brake pads the day before IF it's going to be dry otherwise stick with the pads I've got.
Brake Discs. I have 2 sets of wheels, one with 28k miles, the other with around 14k - both with original discs. Do I replace the oldest discs and get the Brembo 320mm upgrade? It's about £20/discs more than any other 300mm discs.
This way, I can keep the 14k discs for wet weather (sintered pads) and use the brembos for dry weather (dual carbon pads).
Essentially I'm looking for permission as it's going on the credit card if I do it...
I'll wait for my credit card to arrive then I'll be buying them I think...
The engineer in me came out to play though. Larger brake discs result in large torques being applied for the same input force which relates to ~7% less lever input force than OEM.
I then considered mass differences but as the Brembo discs are 1mm thinner than OEM they are actually lighter (not accounting for material differences or the web structure) therefore it is assumed this gain in performance is a true gain.
A company that make commercial brake disks came on our stand yesterday and told me its costs £1.50 to manufacture a 230mm disc
The mark up is incredible
This year has seen my brakes get overhauled and upgraded, new gearing (-1/+3), shock service and revalve, and most recently the forks were serviced and revalved.
The only stock part of my brake setup are the calipers which are brilliant. I have the Brembo RCS 19 Master Cylinder with HEL lines, SBS DC pads and 320mm Brembo Discs. I also serviced the calipers over winter. This setup is absolutely absurd and bloody brutal - you'd best have a strong grip otherwise you will be headbutting the steering damper.
The gearing (-1/+3) is perfectly suited to this bike with a 60 profile rear tyre hitting an indicated 170mph at Silverstone just as it hit the rev limiter in 6th at the end of Hangar Straight. Plenty of power in all gears and it kept trying to lift the front wheel out of the second gear corners at Rockingham this week.
The shock service was a huge difference, the rear traction and support is immense although it still isn't particularly adjustable IMO.
Now for the forks. I lost trust in the front end of my bike with the suspension being vague, and sapping any confidence from me to just drop it into a turn. I got them serviced and revalved by Tillit in Cheltenham and the guy slowed down the rebound damping, improved the compression damping and put the spring on the spring rate jig to check it was right for my weight. What a difference. I have back some level of adjustability now (I say some... 1.5 turns of rebound and 1 turn of preload made all the difference I needed at Rockingham.
The bike is almost exactly where I want it now.. although some real suspension wouldn't go a miss