Tank Slap - Motorcycle Forum

Thinking way back to my days in a calibration lab i seem to remember that steel expands about half as much per degree of heating compared to aluminium so heating the aluminum and then hitting the stud with a hammer before trying to wind it out is what i would try... You don't need it mega hot, but it will be way too hot to touch.

I'm not sure how easily I can heat the surrounding without getting the stud. It's pretty cramped. And the gasket and ports aren't t too far away

Deegee wrote:Might be worth drilling a hole in scrap piece of steel plate to fit over the stud while you're heating it, just to protect the engine coating, I don't know if it'll withstand direct heat at the temps required to degrade loctite - 150-250 deg C depending on which grade has been used. Just a thought.

To be honest the paint is shitty so not bothered about burning that off. I'm already thinking of respraying the engine.

Stonesie wrote:Thinking way back to my days in a calibration lab i seem to remember that steel expands about half as much per degree of heating compared to aluminium so heating the aluminum and then hitting the stud with a hammer before trying to wind it out is what i would try... You don't need it mega hot, but it will be way too hot to touch.

I'll try tonight see if I can direct the flame onto this point.

is that a link? I don't use twitter so not sure.

it's from twitter but it's a link to Instagram showing you what they do



https://www.instagram.com/p/Bv_sUEjgQxo ... 3cqxyvvudh" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

https://www.instagram.com/doncastermotorcycles/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Kwacky wrote:it's from twitter but it's a link to Instagram showing you what they do



https://www.instagram.com/p/Bv_sUEjgQxo ... 3cqxyvvudh" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

https://www.instagram.com/doncastermotorcycles/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Wish I'd seen that first.

He's only took the nuts off. I need to take the studs out.

Wow..well respect to you D6 that's a fair bit of work you are doing. Keep this thread going and let us know how it all goes but I've read everyone's advice and I would defo be listening to these guys. If not luck with what you are doing defo see a pro, sure they will deal with it.

Just a idea but what about getting a mobile mechanic to come around, saves you tryong to get to them..or ask them to collect your bike, maybe not cheapest solution but would save the faff for you if you don't have a trailer etc

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Well, an update. Had a guy from work come round with a welder. Tried welding new nuts onto the old studs, thinking the heat would break the bond, and then have a nut to be able to undo the stud. But unfortunately the weld wouldnt bond. Not sure if the stud is st/st. the nut is regular steel.

So think it will be a drilling out job. And maybe a helicoil. just waiting for the guy at work to speak to a few people for ideas.

I also rang the head of R+D at Arrow Specialist parts (as it is an arrow system I want to put back on) and asked if I could get away with just 1 bolt holding on a header. But he didn't recommend it as expected.

So I'm down to drilling it. Or "getting" a new cylinder head (normally £1300 rrp).

But a new cylinder head means dropping the engine out - which means buying stands etc and a lot of labour.

Is there not a nearby canal you could wheel it to?

Another option is spark erosion. See if there’s anyone near you that does it. It may require the engine out for access.

Overall wouldn't it be quicker and cheaper to get a mobile mechanic to swap the cylinder head?

I assume you've tried putting two nuts onto the stud, locking them together and undoing it that way?

Cav wrote:I assume you've tried putting two nuts onto the stud, locking them together and undoing it that way?

Not enough thread. Only about 3mm of the stud left. It doesn't even clear 1 nut, let alone allow another nut added.

Kwacky wrote:Overall wouldn't it be quicker and cheaper to get a mobile mechanic to swap the cylinder head?

Will try drilling it out first. Just waitiing a few people to come back to me to see if they will do it as a favour. And then see what other favours I can call in from work. but would mean getting it in a van to transport it to work.

kiwikrasher wrote:Another option is spark erosion. See if there’s anyone near you that does it. It may require the engine out for access.

If I do drop the engine, I'd probably just get the cylinder head replaced and have a nice new one.

Have you tried a stud removal tool?

I bet you are starting to think ' why the hell did I start this job?!'

Finger crossed 7ou get it out

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Trade it in for this will be easier all round

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 3522648297" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;