Tank Slap - Motorcycle Forum

kiwikrasher wrote:Torque wrenches should ideally be used in their middle third range Rossgo, so don’t get too worried about what’s happening at the extremes. It’s not designed to be used at its absolute highest or lowest value. As you say, it reads zero on the dial indicator at greater values so if that’s the same through most the range there’s no problem at all.

Also don’t leave it set above it’s lowest reading (the green arrow) when not in use. It’s good practice to leave them unloaded.

kiwikrasher wrote:
Another couple of good tips then if you haven’t used torque wrenches before is

1. When you get the click to indicate the torque has been made when doing it up, release and apply the torque again to get the click. Then do it again. So for every fastener you do up you want to get 3 clicks. Especially important with crush washers and spring washers.

2. Never ever fecking use it to undo fasteners!!!

3. When doing up engine covers or anything else that has multiple fasteners holding something down flat (engine head bolts for example) do the fasteners up in a Criss cross pattern so it goes down evenly till finger tight. Then set 1/3 the torque value and repeat the same pattern. Then 2/3 torque and repeat, then final torque in same pattern. Then finally go around in a circular pattern and torque check all fasteners. When doing this system the only time you need to do the ‘3 clicks’ is on the final full torque criss cross pattern. Then after a heat cycle (if applicable) re-check torques again.

Might all be an over kill on a motor bike in some cases but it’s best practice (Aeronautical tech training) and what I still do as a matter of habit.

Hope all that makes sense.


I know how you like your YouTube so here’s a few good clips.

[video]https://youtu.be/elobo-TnGwA[/video]

This is on squencing on flanges but same principle I mentioned

[video]https://youtu.be/QXYpEi5_Pp0[/video]

Cav wrote:The 3-click rule is very important for tightening bolts which compress seals, the seals 'suffer' from something called hysteresis and this is what I presume is the cause of it.

Try it tonight... torque a caliper bolt and click 3 times, clicks 2 and 3 will probably do nothing.
Now torque a bolt which compresses a seal and you'll see click 2 rotate the bolt half a face and the third click won't do a lot.

It's a good habit to get into.

Blade wrote:Not had chance to review the videos but sure there good and great info by Kiwi

When I did a bolt tensioning course many years ago the biggest thing that jumped out at me was the effect of lubricant and different thread lubricants have of torque value. We were given a chart and due to the difference in co-efficient of friction for different thread lubricants you might need double the amount of torque to achieve the same bolt tension. Alot of people wrongly believe any thread lubricant will do but it should be exactly as specified by the manufacturer or the torque value could be wildly incorrect.

As a rule if thumb don't let that worry you though. Just follow the procedure in the manufacturers manual. Use the torque value they stipulate and the thread lubricant specified, if any and you will be fine.

Blade wrote:Yes Haynes will give your torque values Rossgo.

Take what they say with a pinch of salt though. I no longer buy Haynes manuals becuase I found very occasionally they would miss a step out of a procedure or a snippet of important, critical information would be missing.

Cav wrote:That's exactly the reason I like to stick with the Kawasaki Service Manual - it has 99% of what is needed in a very clear layout and the occasional part number to save going to the OEM parts site and looking through the schematics.

One thing this conversation has made me realise is that I take my knowledge for granted - yet I still feel like I have no idea what I'm doing. It's interesting relating my level of knowledge to Rossgo's (as an example). Great that you want to do stuff yourself though, Rossgo!! Commendable at the very least considering I still don't want to do some stuff myself

Kwacky wrote:I want to start doing a bit more on my bikes. Now I've got a garage and I've got spare bikes in case I feck up I'm more inclided to give it a go.

The Versys is very basic apart from the ABS so I might start looking at doing stuff to that. Over the summer I want to give it a strip down, clean and grease.

My workshop skills are non-existent so threads like this are really useful.

Rossgo wrote:

Blade wrote:Yes Haynes will give your torque values Rossgo.

Take what they say with a pinch of salt though. I no longer buy Haynes manuals becuase I found very occasionally they would miss a step out of a procedure or a snippet of important, critical information would be missing.

Thanks Blade, yea I'll take a look at what they suggest then. I'm sure you go into your bikes in my depth than myself. I'm more of a DIYer!! Odd jobs here and there lol!

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Blade wrote:If doesn't specify any thread lubricant, then just clean up the threads with a wire brush and torque to the value of 39nm the procedure specify's