Tank Slap - Motorcycle Forum

Cav wrote:@Rossgo, the thing with the numbers on it (0, 1, 2), does that rotate through to the number 5?

Effectively it goes to 5 but it goes back to zero (which will be 5 after a full turn)

Now I maybe reading it wrong and that the start number of 2 (in the second reader) maybe meaning 12nm and zero would be 10nm but as it doesn't have 10nm it jumps to 2. But according to the instructions it should start at zero. But by 15nm on the main reader the second reader does then zero itself which then makes me believe that it is all correct but why does the instructions say otherwise.

This is mainly why I dont bother reading instructions for things, they just try to complicate things but I know that torque wrenches can bugger up quickly so i thought I'd best just take a look through and I noticed that small issue!!

Does that make sense?

I know what I mean but I can see the wrench and I can play with it to fully understand lol.



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That's what I was just thinking... the number on the dial specifies the last digit of the torque value. I would hazard a guess that the instructions are wrong or just unclear and that your torque wrench is fine

Cav wrote:That's what I was just thinking... the number on the dial specifies the last digit of the torque value. I would hazard a guess that the instructions are wrong or just unclear and that your torque wrench is fine

I was wondering whether I was just iver complicating it all. It does make sense that way, just don't want to bugger up a pricy bit of kit on a brake caliper bolt and on top of that ruin my caliper thread as well

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I'm actually glad that makes sense to someone too. Thanks for your help Cav

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Torque wrenches should ideally be used in their middle third range Rossgo, so don’t get too worried about what’s happening at the extremes. It’s not designed to be used at its absolute highest or lowest value. As you say, it reads zero on the dial indicator at greater values so if that’s the same through most the range there’s no problem at all.

Also don’t leave it set above it’s lowest reading (the green arrow) when not in use. It’s good practice to leave them unloaded.

kiwikrasher wrote:Torque wrenches should ideally be used in their middle third range Rossgo, so don’t get too worried about what’s happening at the extremes. It’s not designed to be used at its absolute highest or lowest value. As you say, it reads zero on the dial indicator at greater values so if that’s the same through most the range there’s no problem at all.

Also don’t leave it set above it’s lowest reading (the green arrow) when not in use. It’s good practice to leave them unloaded.

So glad of you guys here, proper techs doing this sort of stuff everyday using pro tools. Thankyou. I will defo listen to you kiwi. Never used a Torque Wrench before to be honest, I tend to over tighten loads of stuff....then realise and loosen it off a tad. Actually got told off at work after a mechanical change over a while back....the lad who had to change it back couldn't undo the bolts...Im pretty sure I have done that on my bikes in the past but this will go on no longer for I have invested in the propee tool!

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Have a google for "overtightened motorcycle fork pinch bolts"... you invested wisely

Cav wrote:Have a google for "overtightened motorcycle fork pinch bolts"... you invested wisely

Yep I saw a pic of Gixxer with the fork pinch holes literally smashed off...screw that! Although the wrench I've bought won't tighten up the fork pinch bolts to be honest, it's not quite manly enough if have to buy the next one up but it's not a job I do all that often to be fair...only done it once for the fitting of my braided lines lol

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Rossgo wrote:

kiwikrasher wrote:Torque wrenches should ideally be used in their middle third range Rossgo, so don’t get too worried about what’s happening at the extremes. It’s not designed to be used at its absolute highest or lowest value. As you say, it reads zero on the dial indicator at greater values so if that’s the same through most the range there’s no problem at all.

Also don’t leave it set above it’s lowest reading (the green arrow) when not in use. It’s good practice to leave them unloaded.

So glad of you guys here, proper techs doing this sort of stuff everyday using pro tools. Thankyou. I will defo listen to you kiwi. Never used a Torque Wrench before to be honest, I tend to over tighten loads of stuff....then realise and loosen it off a tad. Actually got told off at work after a mechanical change over a while back....the lad who had to change it back couldn't undo the bolts...Im pretty sure I have done that on my bikes in the past but this will go on no longer for I have invested in the propee tool!

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Another couple of good tips then if you haven’t used torque wrenches before is

1. When you get the click to indicate the torque has been made when doing it up, release and apply the torque again to get the click. Then do it again. So for every fastener you do up you want to get 3 clicks. Especially important with crush washers and spring washers.

2. Never ever fecking use it to undo fasteners!!!

3. When doing up engine covers or anything else that has multiple fasteners holding something down flat (engine head bolts for example) do the fasteners up in a Criss cross pattern so it goes down evenly till finger tight. Then set 1/3 the torque value and repeat the same pattern. Then 2/3 torque and repeat, then final torque in same pattern. Then finally go around in a circular pattern and torque check all fasteners. When doing this system the only time you need to do the ‘3 clicks’ is on the final full torque criss cross pattern. Then after a heat cycle (if applicable) re-check torques again.

Might all be an over kill on a motor bike in some cases but it’s best practice (Aeronautical tech training) and what I still do as a matter of habit.

Hope all that makes sense.


I know how you like your YouTube so here’s a few good clips.

[video]https://youtu.be/elobo-TnGwA[/video]

This is on squencing on flanges but same principle I mentioned

[video]https://youtu.be/QXYpEi5_Pp0[/video]

kiwikrasher wrote:

Rossgo wrote:

kiwikrasher wrote:Torque wrenches should ideally be used in their middle third range Rossgo, so don’t get too worried about what’s happening at the extremes. It’s not designed to be used at its absolute highest or lowest value. As you say, it reads zero on the dial indicator at greater values so if that’s the same through most the range there’s no problem at all.

Also don’t leave it set above it’s lowest reading (the green arrow) when not in use. It’s good practice to leave them unloaded.

So glad of you guys here, proper techs doing this sort of stuff everyday using pro tools. Thankyou. I will defo listen to you kiwi. Never used a Torque Wrench before to be honest, I tend to over tighten loads of stuff....then realise and loosen it off a tad. Actually got told off at work after a mechanical change over a while back....the lad who had to change it back couldn't undo the bolts...Im pretty sure I have done that on my bikes in the past but this will go on no longer for I have invested in the propee tool!

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Another couple of good tips then if you haven’t used torque wrenches before is

1. When you get the click to indicate the torque has been made when doing it up, release and apply the torque again to get the click. Then do it again. So for every fastener you do up you want to get 3 clicks. Especially important with crush washers and spring washers.

2. Never ever fecking use it to undo fasteners!!!

3. When doing up engine covers or anything else that has multiple fasteners holding something down flat (engine head bolts for example) do the fasteners up in a Criss cross pattern so it goes down evenly till finger tight. Then set 1/3 the torque value and repeat the same pattern. Then 2/3 torque and repeat, then final torque in same pattern. Then finally go around in a circular pattern and torque check all fasteners. When doing this system the only time you need to do the ‘3 clicks’ is on the final full torque criss cross pattern. Then after a heat cycle (if applicable) re-check torques again.

Might all be an over kill on a motor bike in some cases but it’s best practice (Aeronautical tech training) and what I still do as a matter of habit.

Hope all that makes sense.


I know how you like your YouTube so here’s a few good clips.

[video]https://youtu.be/elobo-TnGwA[/video]

This is on squencing on flanges but same principle I mentioned

[video]https://youtu.be/QXYpEi5_Pp0[/video]

Good videos there Kiwi and thankyou for sending them through

I don't understand the 3 click torque. I understand what you are saying (do it up - click - loosen - do up - click etc) but don't understand why?

Also never knew about the 20% rule And also if lubed or dry...that is a new one! All these years I've jist been tightening them up to be honest. I'm now worried

Fingers crossed my Haynes manual will have a more accurate torque setting for lubed or dry bolts.

As for the loosening of the bolts I defo won't be using it as a standard torque wrench. They are expensive bits of kit this will only be used for the jobs that it is designed for

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The 3-click rule is very important for tightening bolts which compress seals, the seals 'suffer' from something called hysteresis and this is what I presume is the cause of it.

Try it tonight... torque a caliper bolt and click 3 times, clicks 2 and 3 will probably do nothing.
Now torque a bolt which compresses a seal and you'll see click 2 rotate the bolt half a face and the third click won't do a lot.

It's a good habit to get into.

Not had chance to review the videos but sure there good and great info by Kiwi

When I did a bolt tensioning course many years ago the biggest thing that jumped out at me was the effect of lubricant and different thread lubricants have of torque value. We were given a chart and due to the difference in co-efficient of friction for different thread lubricants you might need double the amount of torque to achieve the same bolt tension. Alot of people wrongly believe any thread lubricant will do but it should be exactly as specified by the manufacturer or the torque value could be wildly incorrect.

As a rule if thumb don't let that worry you though. Just follow the procedure in the manufacturers manual. Use the torque value they stipulate and the thread lubricant specified, if any and you will be fine.

There's a lot of good information here. Maybe a new thread would be worthwhile? I can move some of these posts tonight when I get home.

New thread: viewtopic.php?f=13&t=7188" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

You got home fast, Kwacky! 3 minutes !!!

I decided to do it the lazy way with quotes rather than selecting posts and moving them (which I can't do at work)

Kwacky wrote:New thread: viewtopic.php?f=13&t=7188" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Cheers Kwacky

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A converter mount for my givi phone bag so it mounts on the vfr.

Hopefully now with Waze running I know when that fecking scamera van is there.. also I'll be able to try out some country lanes on the way home without getting hopelessly lost..

Waze is great Although I do find it a bit slow to update the route to the one I've decided to take

Cav wrote:Waze is great Although I do find it a bit slow to update the route to the one I've decided to take

My biggest annoyance is it's inability to switch from WiFi to mobile. I get a really strong WiFi signal on the drive and it's fine, 100 yards down the road and all it says it's no connection.