Tank Slap - Motorcycle Forum

I would have thought that is due to the extra weight of the bike and being so tall - there's bound to be a lot of weight transfer and you wouldn't want the front tyre carcass collapsing.

You won't die by running lower pressures so give it a go anyway, just check the temperature of the tyre with your hand when you pull up (for the road I personally like to ensure my front tyre is hot and my rear tyre is warm)

Cav wrote:You won't die by running lower pressures so give it a go anyway, just check the temperature of the tyre with your hand when you pull up (for the road I personally like to ensure my front tyre is hot and my rear tyre is warm)

I have been running it lower than the 36/36 recommendation, solo usually set at 34/38. To be honest I just stuck to what pressures the guy that hired me the Pikes Peak recommended. It is the one thing I check and set every pre-ride.

Cav wrote:I would have thought that is due to the extra weight of the bike and being so tall - there's bound to be a lot of weight transfer and you wouldn't want the front tyre carcass collapsing.

Yup thats what I gathered too, and in retrospect I have noticed that the front chicken strip is as close to the edge as the rear, when on other bikes I've usually had a wider strip on the front than the rear. So I'm guessing that running it a bit lower I'm getting more deformation. Probably slightly better grip but at a higher wear rate.

Think I might give the 36/36 a try and evaluate the pressure increase cold to hot compared to 34/38.

The only thing I would mention is beware of running lower pressures in wet conditions. Tyre tread is designed to disperse water, and works most effectively at a certain pressure range. As you all just stated, dropping pressure causes the tyre to deform more. This closes the tread, and then does not disperse water.

Of course if you a fairy bike rider and only go out on the 2 days of dry weather per year, this doesn't matter so much.