Tank Slap - Motorcycle Forum

Kwacky wrote:Both of the wheels are looking well used now. The front could do with being replaced as it's been dented.

I'll keep an eye out for a spare front and I think I'll get the rear powder coated or sprayed next winter.

How do you think it got dented ??

Pothole. I remember hitting it. I didn't see it as it was full of water and leaves.

Photo of the rearsets

Still on the look out for rearsets seeing as the ones they sent me didn't have all of the bits, including missing foot pegs .

They're giving me my cash back and told me to keep the parts I've got.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rearsets-Foot ... xyIv5Tku5d" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I found some Chinese copies on Ebay. I'm tempted to get those and use the parts I need from the Chinese set

Or I could buy the ones being sold in Germany for £100 more.......... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kawasaki-ZX6R ... xyJX9SKF7w" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I can't see much difference between them Kwacky, can't see how they would be any different as both are probably made in China anyway!

Pretty sure they're the same thing Kwak.. the german set doesn't even state the grade of the material so you may aswell gamble on a set that costs £100 less.

I would personally go with something other than chinese ones though - that's why I went with the Diamond racing ones

ses are british made and make nice rearsets that you can also buy all the spare for http://www.sesraceproducts.com/kawasaki-31-c.asp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I wa taking the piss about the german ones. I've seen a few European sellers buy Chinese stock and then sell it on. People obviously think they're getting better European products.

I might see if I can find some footpegs for the ones I've got and see if that works. I've nothing to lose. http://www.sesraceproducts.com/footpeg- ... -167-p.asp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; I'll check the size of the bolts at home and take it from there.

SES are good Kwacky. Give them a ring and explain what you need and I'm sure they will be able to help as they will have a range of foot pegs.

Bike booked in with Mike for this Thursday after work to get the rear shock link swapped over.

I'll ask him to look at the CCT as well as I think that's starting to rattle.

Let me know what he does with the CCT because mine seems loud after leaving it over winter

It might need replacing. From what I've read the CCT on our bikes doesn't last that long.

I've found a decent one on Ebay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kawasaki-ZX6R ... 2326389097" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I'll let you know what Mike says.

I've been warned away from the manual ones because they don't account for temperature changes.. OEM is £70..

Ah ok, thanks for the heads up.

No worries, this was coming from a group of racers so would be interesting to see what your guy's view on that is

Cav wrote:I've been warned away from the manual ones because they don't account for temperature changes.. OEM is £70..

How does the OEM account for temperature changes Cav ?

Manual just need regular adjusting when the Infamous Kawasaki tick develops as far as I understand Kwacky

I used to take mine out and clean it and check the ratchet was nice and free and pop it back in. Would be improved for a while but always came back, as it does when the dealer replaces it with a new one in fairness. CCT seems to be a Kawasaki weak point unfortunately. There is a trick to get it to ratchet out and take up the slack if you Google it.

Be interested to here Mikes take on it.

Because it's automatic it adjusts on the fly..

The way it was explained to me is that is effectively works like a derailleur on a push bike to keep the chain at a constant tension so when the chain expands due to heat it will increase tension, when it cools it will decrease tension. It's a dumb system but effective

I think you have been sold a lemon there Cav.

It's basically a little one way
piston (with a shoe in contact with the chain) on a ratchet under spring tension. When the timing chain becomes slack due to wear the spring tension is reduced allowing the piston to travel outwards and readjust the chain tension. As the piston is on a ratchet it's one way travel only, so as the timing chain wears the tension is maintained. If the device was not on a ratchet the chain tension could be taken off which wouldn't be good unless you like valves kissing pistons potentially.

The problem with the oem device is they can can stick and not ratchet out when required so you are not tensioning the chain correctly and you can then hear some chain slap. If you remove it and clean the ratchet it works as good as new until it sticks again which is basically what happens with a replacement new OEM one anyway.

The manual ones allow you to adjust yourself very simply. Only problem is you have to remeber to do it, only do it when it's needed and not over tension other than that they are good bit of kit.

All joking aside go back to chap who told you how they work and tell him a push bike derailleur doesn't tension a chain it de-rails it to change gears. The clues in the name

The OEM has no allowance for temperature. It's a very simple device that ratchets out when the chain is slack and then stays in that position until the timing chain wears again and CCT ratchets out another notch and so on as the cycle repeats or does until the ratchet sticks again.

Hope that makes sense and is useful.

Could hear it on the 636 last year so I followed a guide on YouTube on how to tighten up by forcing it to ratchet. Was pretty easy it was just a bit of a Pain to get to. Anyway started the bike and the chain noise has gone and was singing like a good un again.